Message in a bottle

Let’s talk about wine! That’s always good.

We have a clear view of our way forward. It includes learning from others. In our new “Message in a bottle” series, we want to introduce some of our vintner friends, people we respect for their personality and for their work. They will tell us what our wines mean to them – and we will describe our favorites among their wines. The subject of the first article is Giovanni Manetti of the Fontodi wine estate.

Travel acquaintance. When traveling, one often has a special sensitivity for the mood, taste and culture of a region. That is certainly the case with Giovanni Manetti. Why he is drawn to South Tyrol several times a year and what has become of a travel acquaintance is something you can discover below.

I love South Tyrol; it’s my favorite region, and I have a wonderful time there every year. In July I climb the fabulous Dolomite passes on my bike, in November I travel to enchanting Merano for the wine festival, and at the end of the year I go on a skiing holiday in my beloved Corvara. It was there, at the Costa family’s La Perla hotel, that I first had the pleasure of tasting the Mason di Mason produced by Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg in Manincor. What a fantastic wine! It is a great wine, one that lends optimum expression to the magic of Pinot Noir and reflects the character of the fascinating countryside. In the glass I see the light of the sky above the mountains and discover the delicate, yet intensive aromas of mountain flowers and fruits.

On the palate, the wine is as elegant and harmonious as the landscape in the region but as firm and fine in structure as the minerals of the Dolomite rock. My heart fills with joy as I taste the unadulterated purity and liveliness of this wine. They derive from a natural method of production which takes account of the rhythms of heaven and earth and which I find so very convincing. What a boon it would be for humanity and the planet as a whole if all agricultural activity were one day to be based on this model, which shows such respect for nature, love of tradition and sheer good taste.

I raise my glass with the graceful and inviting 2012 Mason di Mason and drink to life. My compliments go to my friend Michael for having given us this outstanding wine!

Short biography: Born in Florence in 1963, Giovanni Manetti studied economy and took over his parents’ business in 1989. In 1981 he created the internationally noted Flaccianello della Pieve, one of the original Super Tuscans. In 1990 he began the transition to organic and then to biodynamics. Vice-president of Consorzio del Chianti Classico.

Michael Goëss-Enzenberg’s wine recommendation: For me the Flaccianello is the perfect expression of elegance and finesse in a varietal Sangiovese wine. A fascinating aspect is the drinkability of the wine in such an opulent body. This harmony is common to great terroir wines, and the Flaccianello is clearly one of them. An autochthonous wine of the Chianti region with a special radiance! Whenever I find it on the wine list in a restaurant, it is always a big favorite of mine.